This review was a long time coming. Rather than a full review as we were planning, this is going to be more of a “product awareness post”.
Concrobium sent us two bottle sample kit a few months back, but with the wedding in May and the move, we haven’t had time to do a test like we’d been planning.
Last week, though, I made the exciting discovery that there was mold in the office sink. I brought the “MoldControl” to work and was prepared to give it a test only to discover that it’s not intended for sinks but rather more of a preventive solution for walls and surfaces not intended for dampness.
So, a huge thanks to Concrobium for sending the sample our way. I’ll keep my eyes open for an opportunity to give it a test.
Until then, dear readers, learn more on the Concrobium Mold Control website.
In doing some research on Concrobium Mold Control, I am finding that it only encapsulates mold, does not kill mold. I was told that when sprayed in a wall, that re-application has to be every 3 months so therefore you would have to tear the wall down to reapply. Also, the product is 0.95% sodium carbonate which is baking soda, and I am assuming the latter is water. Even though the product is EPA registered, it is not EPA approved am I correct. Would appreciate your take on this.
Hi Darlene – my name is Brad and I am with Siamons International, the manufacturer of Concrobium Mold Control®. I thought it might help if I addressed your questions directly.
Your first question is whether Concrobium Mold Control just “encapsulates” mold, which implies that the solution just “covers” or “traps” the mold. Some antimicrobial solutions are just ‘encapsulants’, but Concrobium Mold Control goes further than encapsulation; as it dries over the moldy surface it forms an antimicrobial shield that actually eliminates the mold and mildew underneath.
Your second question regards the need for re-application. In addition to eliminating mold, Concrobium Mold Control stays on surfaces – in the form of an invisible antimicrobial shield – to prevent mold and mildew growth. As long as that shield is intact, the treated surface retains a protective barrier that will prevent the growth of mold and mildew. Reapplication is only necessary if that barrier is removed or covered with a new surface. So if the surface receives constant dousing with water (e.g. a shower stall), or resurfaced (painted) or becomes very soiled, it is recommended that the Concrobium Mold Control be reapplied. Otherwise reapplication should not be required.
Your third question regards the ingredients of Concrobium Mold Control. You are correct that the solution is 0.95% sodium carbonate, but there are two other ingredients which, combined with the sodium carbonate and the water, result in this unique, patented solution that eliminates and prevents mold. The solution contains no bleach, ammonia or VOCs. Our Material Safety Data Sheet is posted on our web site: http://www.concrobium.com/US/advantage.html.
Your final question asked whether the product is EPA-registered or EPA-approved. The answer is the former: Concrobium Mold Control is EPA-registered, which means that our science has been reviewed by the EPA and that we are allowed to make the claims that the product eliminates and prevents mold. Note that any manufacturer who claims that their product eliminates or prevents mold WITHOUT EPA registration is breaking the law. To the point about EPA “approval”, it is our understanding that the EPA does not “approve” or “endorse” antimicrobial products, so “registration” is the only term that applies in this situation.
I hope these answers help. If you have any more questions or would like to discuss further, please don’t hesitate to call us at 1-866-811-4148 or email us at [email protected].
Brad — Thanks for your answer to the question, but I’m curious about one ambiguity that you mention. Does concrobium KILL mold? The way you’ve described it, concrobium “eliminates the mold underneath” the dried sodium carbonate, but to Kill is very different from to Eliminate (Eliminate could mean clean or remove likely leaving spores intact). Thanks!
Since the link to “Our Material Safety Data sheet” wont open? I think that what I paid for your product at $5.95 for baking soda is a big disappointment. I have had no success with this product and followed the directions.
Answer from Manufacture below:
Concrobium Mold control will Kill and prevent mold growth. When you spray directly onto the mold and allow it to dry, this will encapsulate the mold and crush the cells of the mold physically. Basically, like suffocating the mold so it is dead. Once the surface is dry, the mold is dead and then you can wipe away the dead mold with a cloth or brush. Spray again and allow to dry and this will work as a preventative.
Makers of Concrobium Mold Control
the cure for the common Mold
Baking soda is sodium bicarbonate. Notice the “bi” prefix. Concrobium is sodium carbonate. No “bi” prefix.
What is the effect of the Mold Control on Stachybotrys chartarum?
I have windows to paint and wonder about using your product before painting. Will it affect the adhesion of the paint, or should I wipe it off after it has dried?
Appreciate you comments.
I bought this product today and sprayed it in my musty smelling basement (which I suspect is due to mold). To my amazement the smell was eliminated. I’m curious to give it a few days and see if the smell comes back. Anyway, so far looks pretty impressive.
Get the MSDS here http://www.safetyexpress.com/Services/media/MSDS/Restoration/Concrobium.pdf And as mentioned, it is NOT baking soda, look it up. Also read the testimonials here http://www.verdeii.com/mold.html
Do you recommend the Fogmaster Tri Jet Fogger, to spray Concrobium , or mist it? If I leave this fogger going in my basement, will it keep mold away? Do I have to leave it for some time? Thanks
I noticed in two separate corner locations in my house where the water overflowed from my plant and when I went to move the plant this weekend I noticed mold on my carpet. When I investigated further I found: under my carpet and underpad was an area of 4 sqft where mold was present, on my baseboard, behind baseboard on drywall, behind drywall on 2X4 beams. So basically in one area I removed the 2X4 and installed new one, I removed drywall and base board in the corner areas and sprayed the wood and wiped it with concrobium. I have an issue with some of the things I am reading with respect to does it KILL it or cover it because I don’t wanna seal up with new plastic, insulation, drywall, etc and then it’s still alive in my walls. Should I fog the area basically getting everything? How can I be assured everything is captured? What would you do if you were I? Help!
Can Mold Control be applied to exterior
If so how long can you expect it to last
before you recoat.
Will we need to cover everything (clothes, dishes etc) on the floor above if we use fogger in the basement crawl?
I have black mold on the subfloor in my bathroom. If I spray and then cover it with 3/4″ plywood, will this keep the mold from growing back?
Is their a shelf life for Concrobium? In other words an expiration date.
We are remodelling our basement and have discovered mold on the block foundation. Can I use this product and then insulate over top of it? I understand that this product kills the mold but the black colouring remains. Is this the case? What more do I need to do to be able to insulate and put drywall on my basement walls?
Concrombium is truly a wonder and I am mystified about why it is not better known. We had a terrible battle with mold after the humidity level in our home got out of control. Slowly but surely mold was taking over our indoor air space, yet for a long time we could find no visible mold. I researched and researched and used a variety of methods, from the old stand-bys (bleach) to the alternative (tea tree oil and grapefruit seed extract mixtures). When I finally discovered mold on the insides of our vents, I was having constant headaches and sneezing and my kids went from having asthma that was rarely a problem to having to take powerful asthma medications on a daily basis (at a cost of $300 per month for the two of them). Our health was in danger and we were miserable in our house. I lost every shoe I owned to mold growth in my closet. I couldn’t breathe well at night. When I discovered my favorite upholstered chair had gone moldy beneath its slipcover I broke down in tears (and threw it out in the trash). I discovered mold on the books and the wall hangings. I got to the point where I felt completely defeated–even if we could move, how could we throw out everything we owned and start over again? When I finally discovered Concrombium, I was hopeful, but skeptical. After all, if it was so great, why could I find nothing online about it? Why wasn’t it being recommended on government websites regarding mold remediation. But I bought a bottle and I used it inside the most troublesome air vent. The smell was neutralized for a few days, and I knew there was a shot–even if it didn’t end up working, the price was so low I could take the chance on it. I rented a concrobium fogger from Home Depot, deposited my kids at my sister’s, and then got to work. I fogged every room of my house. I fogged the closets, the clothes, I did my best to fog inside all the air vents and air returns. I fogged the crawlspace beneath the house, I fogged the attic. I fogged every single spot that the fog could possibly reach. And my house smelled completely neutral; it was beautiful. (Then I washed all the clothes that I had fogged, they will get somewhat sticky, but every piece of clothing survived, nothing was ruined, and nothing smelled moldy anymore.) After a few weeks, I was disappointed to discover an occasional tiny waft of moldy smell in my bedroom; it continued and I couldn’t figure out where it was coming from. This disappointment was tempered by the fact that the overall mold smell was gone, but I was frustrated and I was reacting to it with sneezing and difficulty breathing again. Finally, my husband discovered the source. It was coming from inside my velvet lined jewelry box, which had been closed during the fogging. Problem now solved. I know this is long, and I apologize for that, but I truly feel this product deserves more than a cursory glance, and it deserves better than people dismissing it without giving it a true test (for instance, you can’t expect it to work if the problems that caused the mold aren’t solved–for us, that meant the installation of a sump pump to control the excessive humidity from the earth in our crawl space plus dehumidification inside our house during the summer–but once those fixes were in place, the mold floating around in our house still needed to be neutralized). A few months after our grand fogging experience, my kids had their best lung function tests ever! Unfortunately, they still require their medications and I think the overexposure to mold is something their bodies will have to recover from for a long time–and the same is true for me. But we now live in a home that smells clean and has healthy air. We couldn’t have done it without Concrobium. The cost of the treatment was about $100 total, the majority of that was the fogger rental. If you are looking into a major mold remediation project, try concrombium first. It’s simple, it’s non-toxic, it’s cheap. And it’s not too good to be true. It works.
As a mold remediation professional I have some concerns about homeowners’ use of concrobium. First, if it is a “kill” product, how does it impact the health of inhabitants, or those exposed. As dead mold spores are not considered neutralized and can still cause a physical reaction, how does it really help beyond affecting the the treated growth itself.
I often tell customers that I am more than happy to guide them through remediation based activities under two conditions. First, they are not putting themselves, or anyone else in harms way. Second, that they will not compromise the efficacy of the process. I don’t see a lot of harm with using an “over the counter” product to treat a small area of mildew, and possibly mold, so long as it really corrects the problem and is not substituted for true remediation when necessary.
I suspect that sodium carbonate is used due to its crystaline-like structure. Its sharp edges likely penetrates the cell wall and causes the cell to die. (Please understand that I am not a chemist and this is a guess based upon my knowledge of microbials and various means of treating them).
Another concern when using various products (i.e. bleach, some biocides, etc) is the bloom effect. The mold growing on organic material is very happy. It has a food source and an environmental condition to support it. When sprayed with some products, the mold has a defensive reaction. It reacts as though it is under attack. Some mold will emit mycotoxins, others will put the majority of their energy into finding someplace else to live by putting a massive quanity of mold spores into the air.
Regardless, while mold is a health concern, I always suggest looking at the problem logically, doing your research and consulting with at least a couple professionals to assist you in determining a course of acting that is safe and effective.
I’m very upset that this product did not work for us. After reading all of these blogs and going over the website, we rented a fogger and bought the Concrobium at Home Depot. My husband went by the letter and did exactly what was instructed. He fogged our attic which was where the problem originally was and found the fogger easy to use. We were confident that we would be OK. The product was dry for about a week when the mold inspector came to do his air quality test for our homeowner’s insurance company. Our numbers were extremely high! Now we will have to hire someone for much more money and have the testing done again! The $350 fee was high to us. I can’t even imagine what it will cost for professional remediation. We are so upset that we can’t catch a break.
The correct link for the Concrobium Material Safety Data Sheet is posted on their web site at
Mold control has worked wonderful in my basement you still have to do your part and make sure the humidity levels are low as well as move the air once in a while (i have a fan on a timer) and reduce clutter. Darlene if mold is getting behind your walls you have to attack the water coming in, in the first place.
Thanks Laura for the information. I have discovered the source of my mold (leaky basement) and scrubbed the area. However, now that the basement is water free, I continue to smell a “mildewy” smell coming from the air vents. I’ve been looking for answers and had heard about Concrobium through eHow.com. Before I began the process, I wanted to see if others had experiences with the product. Will let everyone know the outcome of my adventure, as I fog the HVAC.
Please take the time to hsve a look at this website. It is the only multi -product website for mold, algae, and mildew in Canada. A huge amount of information and application tips.
Hello, this is Brad again – from Siamons International, the manufacturer of Concrobium Mold Control. Thanks to everyone for posting their positive experiences with our product – we are always thrilled to hear that homeowners and pros are successfully eradicating mold with Concrobium.
Also, we’ve noticed that some of you are posting product-specific questions on this site. As we don’t always monitor this site, we invite you to visit our web site (www.concrobium.com) if you wish to submit a question directly to us. Or, if you wish, feel free to visit our Facebook page to post a question: facebook.com/moldcontrol.
Finally – just wanted to congratulate Jonathan and Josyln on a great mold web site; education is key when it comes to fighting mold!
A few quick answers to your questions above, though you’ve no doubt tracked us down via our web site:
1. Concrobium Mold Control is primarily designed for interior surfaces, however it can be used on outdoor surfaces (a lot of people use it on boat exteriors, for example). The only issue with using the product for outdoor mold protection is that rain and moisture will wear away at the antimicrobial film, which means that more frequent re-application is necessary. We have developed a product called Mold Defense for outdoor use. More information is available at http://www.concrobium.com.
2. We do recommend the tri-jet fogger or any other cold fogger for treating large or inaccessible areas (like a musty basement or attic) with Concrobium Mold Control. Simply follow the instructions listed on our web site to mist the area, coat all surfaces with the product and allow to dry. Continuous treatment is not necessary; one application should do the trick.
3. When fogging, all items that may be harmed by moisture should be removed or covered. This would include but not be limited to home electronics, artwork and books. I would also remove clothing as the product, if over-applied, can leave a light film on surfaces.
4. Regarding subflooring, yes, spraying Concrobium Mold Control on the surface and allowing to dry will eradicate existing mold and prevent regrowth. Note that the original water source that created the mold (humidity, water intrusion) should also be addressed.
5. Yes, we do publish an expiry date for Concrobium Mold Control. It is printed on each bottle. Our current studies are showing no efficacy reduction after 6 years.
6. Insulation can be placed on top of a surface once it has been treated with Concrobium Mold Control. Just ensure that 1) the water source that caused the mold in the first place has been addressed and 2) that the surface has been thoroughly treated and the product has been allowed to dry. Note that Concrobium can only work on a surface it makes contact with; if there is mold on the underside of a surface and Concrobium does make contact with that side, the mold will remain and may continue to grow.
How soon can we paint after applying your product Concrobium mold control?
You can paint over a Concrobium-treated surface as soon as the Concrobium solution has dried, which in a typical indoor environment takes a few hours max. So certainly you could paint the next day. Please note that latex-based paints adhere best to a Concrobium-treated surface. If you plan on using an oil-based paint please consider a latex primer.
Please note that if you require quick response to any Concrobium questions we welcome you to visit us at http://www.concrobium.com and to contact us using the CONTACT US info. Thanks!
Can Concrobium be used in a fogger that is set up to blow into the HVAC return? I think we may have mold in our duct work and was wondering if this would be a good way to neutralize it. Thanks.
Hi Johnny. If you would be kind enough to email us at [email protected] or call us at 1-866-811-4148 we’d be happy to provide advice on how best to deal with your mold issue. Thanks!
Folks…We have a solution for your mold problem in your duct work and in your home. And you do NOT have to use a fogger and cover everything. Actually it is best to leave everything uncovered and let our system not only kill the mold in the air but on your surfaces as well! PLEASE contact us for complete, affordable protection with is 100% safe and effective!
I have been using Concrobium Mold Control since it was first introduced in the US. I am in the Northeast and had to get it from Florida at first. We always had mold in the a/c unit and our a/c ductwork when opened in the spring and kept replacing ductwork and bleaching the unit until we found Concrobium. Now DH fogs the return duct in the fall and we have never seen any mold since either in the unit or ductwork. Just as a precaution he does it again before we fire it up in the spring but really feel this is overkill. Only problem with the outdoor Mold Defense is Home Depot does not carry it up here and when it first came out I ordered some as we had a shed that was completely covered with mold. We cleaned it off and sprayed Mold Defense on and the next spring — no mold came back – as a precaution we sprayed it again with Mold Defense and again this year not one speck of mold. Before that every year after the winter was over it quickly became covered with mold so don’t let anyone tell you the products from Siamons do not work — they do. The only down side is the white residue that is left sometimes from overspraying or overfogging an area or drips on the floor. However, that is easily cleaned up with – guess what – Concrobium. One day I am going to have DH fog each room and I intend to wallpaper so will clean the wall with Concrobium first. It is truly a wonderful and safe product and I always have some on hand.
Years ago we had professional remediation at $30,000 and could never afford a repeat so Concrobium has saved the day for us. DH fogs the basement occasionally as we do get water in maybe 2x/year and have a large 4×4 pit with the sewer pipe and sump pump. Our basement never smells musty.
However, since Concrobium is not concentrated but already mixed I do put a bit of concentrated Moldzyme in my 3 dehumidifier buckets daily to prevent any mold buildup in them and it cuts down on cleaning them out. Now I only clean them once per month. Also, I use fragrance free baby wipes to dust with (except my wood paneling which I use regular wood cleaner on) as I was told by a remediator that the enzymes in them clean up any mold spores. That in conjunction with Concrobium has kept my high humidty house mold free for years.
We are looking into purchasing a foreclosed home and know that there is mold in mainly the crawl space and at least one wall. I am sure we would have to remove part of the flooring, though I strongly suspect the rot problem is fairly limited. I worked in construction all my life. Am wondering if there are any other precautions I should be taking, besides removal and or replacement of stressed structure such as floor joists.
Refogging on a regular basis is not a problem, within reason. Any help would be of great interest. I live just south of Dayton, Ohio, for those interested in geographics. The crawl has an exposed dirt floor, the home is brick over wood structure and the work height is about 42 inches. I would plan to install a sump pump in a proper sump, outside the crawl, but with access to the space.A good plastic liner material, some wall insulation on the west wall, will finish out much of my project if I choose to do so. Any hints?
FOR BRAD FROM CONCROBIUM:
(I’ve tried asking this question through the Concrobium website, but nobody has posted it or responded to it. Please do respond!)
My concern about Concrobium has to do with its EXTREMELY alkaline (base) pH. The MSDS shows a potential pH of 11.5. That’s an intense alkali!
Questions about this:
1. Most building and cleaning products (paints, primers, sealants, adhesives, tapes, fasteners, cleaning sprays, etc.) specify to “avoid strong alkalis or acids”. In many cases, that’s because the products will produce extremely toxic decomposition vapors (formaldehyde, chlorine gas, etc!) when exposed to an extreme pH substance! In other cases, it’s because the product will fail — lose its adhesion, disintegrate, etc.
So how can you advise homeowners to spray Concrobium on surfaces — and LEAVE it there — that may later need to have other products applied to it, or that may already have such products’ residues on them?
2. How can you claim a health risk of zero on the MSDS, for a product with an extreme pH? If it’s a strong alkali coating, it will tend to irritate skin, dry out skin, and especially irritate or damage eyes, right? By definition?
Here’s hoping there’s some good explanation that will set our minds at ease. We’d love to use Concrobium throughout our home. But not until this issue is fully addressed.
I notice that you ignored a previous poster who asked whether Concrobium might cause paint/primer to fail.
Really, this issue is absolutely crucial for the safety and well-being of your customers, so it is time to address it publicly.
I hope you will reply this time, in this venue.
I came upon this blog because I am trying to get more information regarding mold removal. We just bought a house which has been empty for about 3 years, during which time a pipe had burst in the basement and left mold all over the walls and ceiling. The walls are wood paneling, the air in the basement is now dry as we live in the Northeast and it’s now cold outside so we have the advantage there. We want to remove the mold ourselves and were wondering if a fogger and the Concrobium Mold Control is enough? First we considered removing all the wood paneling but now learning about the fogger and this product we would be excited if that is all we would need to do. Did anyone have to remove the actual walls or is it enough just to fog and wipe down the walls and still be assured that the mold is gone???
i’m willing to try this product, how does this work on plaster walls? any different procedure?
Moved into an old house and all the kitchen cabinets and drawers (wooden) smell like mildew. Any silverware or objects placed in these drawers smell this way when taken out, so have to be rewashed. What’s the best way to tackle this problem? Also, is this a health hazard or “merely” unpleasant (very unpleasant!)?
I find your product smells like urine which is worse than the musty smell of mold. Does this odour go away? I hope so it is horrible. My husband has used your product to get rid of the mold in cold air return. Please advise about the urine smell coming from your product.
For all those wondering…The difference between sodium Bicarbonate and sodium carbonate is that Sodium carbonate has two sodium atoms, while the sodium bicarbonate has one hydrogen atom and one sodium atom. Regardless, they are both made from neutralizing carbonic acid (aqueous carbon dioxide) with sodium hydroxide.
Sodium bicarbonate has been neutralized with one equivalent of sodium hydroxide while sodium carbonate has been neutralized with two equivalents of sodium hydroxide.
I did notice on the MSDS that the pH of Concrobium is above 11. The high pH is likely due to the sodium carbonate (and the accompanying fungicide), but I am curious why the manufacturer is stating this is non-irritating with eye contact. Actually, at this pH, if you contact it with your eye, you should probably rinse it out immediately. Also, the manufacturer should modify the MSDS accordingly to reflect this, as left in there for an extended period of time, it could do damage to the eye. Fortunately, the damage would be minimal as the concentration of carbonate is low in the formulation. Still, there is a danger, albeit small, and people should be made aware of it.
It wouldn’t surprise me (and I’m just guessing here) that the ‘proprietary ingredients’ are nothing more than surfactants and lime-sulfur (which is a known fungicide, made by boiling calcium hydroxide in water and sulfur…..see Wikipedia for a primer on it if you like…)
Based on the chemistry, the concoction should work well….
PS: didn’t mean to insult readers — just angry that a scam like concrobium has so many gullable followers. I’m guessing it probably costs them about $0.25 a gallon to make and package, ( $0.15 for the bottle) and should sell for about $3 – $4 a gallon like clorox.
I just used the product and I don’t think it smells like urine at all. Please consider the possibility that whatever you are spraying it on is giving off urine like chemicals when it gets wet. For example, I just fogged my basement with a gallon of the stuff. It didn’t smell at all while it was coming out of the fogger, but when I went down after the fogging was complete (without my mask), it REEKED of mildew and a urine-like smell. My point is, maybe I’m wrong when I say I don’t think it smells at all, but it just may be the environment that smells and not the product itself.
Very useful information, but has anyone done an AIR mold test before and after using this product??
Ok, I used the Concrobium on a moldy basement, and parts of it I liked while parts of it I didn’t like. Some of the local stores have the fogger, while some of the other ones don’t. I personally don’t like the fogger. A lot of the solution ended up on the floor, and it was a waste of money. I would rather recommend an air paint sprayer with a 2.5 gallon pressure pot (available from Harbor freight tools), and then get a more uniform coverage over everything. It might use more material that way, but who cares.
The solution does leave an oily feel on your hands if you get it on you. This is due to the di and tri-sodium phosphates in the solution. (Yes, looked up the patent, and that is what it is….basically trisodium phosphate neutralized to ~pH 11 with phosphoric acid, and then diluted with water…$2.00 worth of chemicals and bottle that they charge $33.00 for!).
I also looked up the EPA registration, #82552, and it gives the active ingredient as Sodium Carbonate, which is at odds with the patent #WO2006108293A1.
Still, it seems to work fine. I haven’t had any mold return.
I didn’t like that the concrobium did not remove the mold stains. For that, I went with bleach. It bleached it out nicely (yea, I know, not EPA registered, blah, blah, blah…it still removed the color, which is what I wanted.) So then I encapsulated everything with an antimicrobial containing sealant…a water-based polyurethane(Always had two dehumidifiers on, so they dried everything out fast!).
Had the house re-inspected. No evidence of mold….no mold odor….sweet!!!
This stuff is great!! I don’t know why I didn’t hear about it until today, it took care of problem and it did not smell at all. EXCELLENT Liz
[…] Product Review: Concrobium Mold Control – The Mold Blog https://moldblogger.com/… or “traps” the mold. Some antimicrobial solutions are just 'encapsulants', but Concrobium Mold Control goes further than encapsulation; as it dries over the moldy surface it forms an antimicrobial shield that actually eliminates the mold and mildew underneath. …. Will we need to cover everything (clothes, dishes etc) on the floor above if we use fogger in the basement crawl? …. Another concern when using various products (i.e. bleach, some biocides, etc) is the bloom effect. The mold … […]
I see a lot of people talking about using Concrobium, and then using bleach to remove the stains. I have some mold in my attic due to bathroom fans being vented to the attic improperly. Now that that has been fixed would there be any reason why you wouldn’t use bleach first to remove the stains, and then use Concrobium to protect from future mold? Just curious.
After doing a lot of research, we now use BoraCare with MoldCare.
Thanks for all of the comments
Where can I purchase “Mould stain eraser” ?
Anyone that is interested in DIY mold removal, they should deeply consider using a product call “Mold Bomb Fogger”! it is EPA Registered as a “Mold Killer” and works 100%. Its simple, Much more cost effective, and takes a fraction of the time others products require. It is also alcohol based so you do not have to cover or remove any artifacts from the area you are treating. This is great because mold goes anywhere dust goes, so if you have to remove or cover your television, then you are leaving behind mold spores that would typically be trapped in the back of your television! Take a look for yourselves.. http://biocidelabs.com/Mold_Bomb_Fogger.html
I’m a mold remediation contractor and was considering this product for using during our remediation projects. Would it this product be used to “seal” mold spores to a surface and control the ambient spores before a post testing?
In other words will it help if we fog an area to cut down on mold spores which may still be airborne.
I’ve been doing a lot of research lately before I start my mold remediation and I found information regarding your question. If you do use bleach you need to be sure to clean the surface very good and allow to dry before attempting to use concrobium. I don’t remember the specifics or have a link for you to follow up on but if you use bleach it will prevent concrobium from working properly on the surface enless cleaned thoroughly. I assume that if you were to try to use bleach to remove stains after spraying conrobium and killing the mold that it would also remove the barrier that concrobium provides.
We have an extensive amount of mold on our unfinished basement subflooring due to a water heater that burst making our basement like a steam room. We were advised to spray it all with a solution of bleach and water. Now we have found out that bleach is not effective on porous surfaces and must treat with somethng else. We would like to try concorbium but I read the post that said it was ineffective if it was applied over bleach. The person who posted this was unable to reference where this informaton was found, but if it true, and I trust that it proably is, will srayiny with water be enough to remove the bleach soluton. I wouldn,t know what else to do. We sprayed pretty heavy with the bleach solution. Since concorbium has its own stain remover, why would anyone to use bleach, except for the cost. For those who complain that the product is overpriced based on the inexpensive cost of the ingredients of this product,they must remember the company has to pay for advertisement, maintainence of a production plant,employees, as well as the many other expenses it takes to run a company. If those who complain about the cost happen to call a professional remediation service, they might really have something to complain about. Anyway, I would really like a response from someone from the company to confirm whether the bleach application will make the product ineffective and, if t does, what should I do about it.
Jane-August 19, 2013
Hi, I’d like to try it on my moldy saddle. What do ypu think? Stephanie
I would like to respond to both Stephanie, and Jane.
Stephanie, so that you know, Concrobium is quite basic (caustic), probably above a pH of 10, and maybe higher. Your saddle is made from organic material (leather), that breaks down under caustic conditions. I personally would not want to use it on a saddle. I think you could damage it.
Jane, the person that indicated that you cannot use Concrobium over bleach, I believe is incorrect. As some background, bleach is made by reacting chlorine with NaOH (Caustic) to make NaOCl (Bleach), plus NaCl (table salt), plus water. When it decomposes, it basically makes salt, gives off an oxygen radical, which ultimately combines to make elemental oxygen. So, all you have left are salt, and water (evaporated) and oxygen (gone).
Concrobium is a mixed salt of sodium carbonate and sodium phosphate (with only some of the sites on the phosphate neutralized), and might have another one or more anti-mold agent. When you put it down on a surface and it dries, the salt crystals contract, thereby puncturing the mold spores, thereby killing them.
If I were you, I would go ahead and use the concrobium, but get yourself a dehumidifier and dry it out as quickly as possible so the spores don’t have time to grow before the Concrobium can do its thing.
In my estimation, Concrobium’s primary mode of action is mechanical, so drying it out so that it can form the polymer chain and then shrink is important.
Good luck with your project!
BTW, I do NOT work for Concrobium….but do work with chemicals daily….my comments are merely my thoughts based on my experience.
“the product is 0.95% sodium carbonate”
…”You are correct that the solution is 0.95% sodium carbonate”…..
Do you mean 95% or 0.95%, as you have written. .95% is less than 1%, so how can it be such a big deal??
If you mean 95%, then …. how can we take you seriously. Bad joke but I couldn’t resist.
Hi, I hear a lot of people on here worrying about whether or not mold is “Killed” or Encapsulated, this isn’t important, what matters is getting the mold removed. The bad effects of mold are there whether or not the mold is alive. The dead cells still have all of the toxins that were produced while they were alive. Toxins are non-living molecules produced by living things which have negative effects on other living things. Mycotoxins are toxins produced by any fungi. Molds are varying organisms within the Fungus kingdom, in the divisions Ascomycota and Zygomycota, which reproduce by spores, form networks of fine hyphae which are part of the same organism, and generally live on moist organic material like wood, paper, cloth, or food. The spores will start new molds if they are not removed or encapsulated, so in many ways encapsulation is better than killing, but total removal is best. I don’t know how this product works, but based on the Data Sheet for it, it seems to be a very simple salt solution which kills mold and may form a crystalline network over the surface to encapsulate. I have never used this product. Good luck!
Concrobium Mold Control worked wonders for me. I was living in a rented place where the landlords refused to fix a serious leak in the basement time and time again. I got sicker and sicker. I could not get over one sinus infection before I came down with the next one, and I was always tired. There’s more, but it’s too much for this blog. The air test results I hired a professional for, proved that the levels of airborne mold were out of control, even after I pulled fresh air throughout the place.
There was no way I could stay there. When I moved, I had to clean EVERYTHING I owned on the way out of that place and on the way into my new place. It was slow and excruciating, but I was unemployed, sick and desperate. I didn’t know about foggers then, but I came up with the idea of using a “backpack” sprayer which I filled (and refilled) and sprayed all furniture and everything I owned, except for linen and clothes which I washed in very hot soapy water. As I removed my belongings, I put them out on a table or by the spraying table in the parking lot – sprayed – and then my friends helped me pack them onto the truck.
Since I was unemployed, I tried to hang some dry cleaning clothes outside for 6 weeks. Even after six weeks, they still smelled like mold, that’s how unbelievably difficult mold is to remove.
I left the mold infested place 2 years ago this week. Suffice it to say, I have not been sick in two years.
Signed, Very Grateful
I had a new roof put on because my builder left all of the bird holes stuffed with insulation which caused my attic roof to mold. I replaced the roof and within six months the problems were starting over. I have never been more stressed about any material issue.
We have sealed every air leak in wires, vents, etc. We have also changed are ventilation system. During the process we added more insulation. The attic is no longer freezing,m but mold has began to grow during all of this.
We have sprayed some of the attic with conrobioum mold remover. WE are not seeing a difference and can not find the erraser anywhere in town. I am renting the fogger tomorrow and praying that I DO NOT have the same outcome as the couple who did there attic in this blog.
I do not know if we can fog over the insulation that is there. I hate to replace it again. I am thinking the insulation will be compremised by the liquid mold solution and if we don’t try it will potentially have mold spores grow.
Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.
I have read that a strong solution of 10% Hydrogen Peroxide and boric acid is great mold killer. The Peroxide also acts as a stain remover also. I am thinking of using this solution to kill the mold and using a sealant like forticel. Look, I just want to mold gone as best as it can be and don’t want to do the work over. I know to stop all the leaks that started the problem. Is there any reason why this set up will not work? Could I use Concrobium in between the two coats as an insurance policy? Or use Concrobium as the first coat and the peroxide mix as the second coat for stains?
I use about 10-20 gallons aweek and this product works really well .I do property management on forclosed homes.I use it by spayer and by jet fogger .very good product just wish I could get bigger amounts instead of by the gallon.it’s would save me money and time
Have mold in rafter bays in kneewall space. How would you go about applying concrobium with cold fogger? Would this be my solution.
I used it for a moldy closet where the steam from hot water pipes was causing a bad moldy smell in the bedroom. I brought about 8 spray bottles of it and used it over a period of 2 weeks. Unfortunately, it didn’t work for me. The moldy smell remained even after spraying down the entire room and quarantining it.
When I say I sprayed down the walls. I mean it literally. The walls look like they had been splattered in the stuff. I literally doused it up and down the wall around baseboards and even poured it into the carpet in case any spores were hiding out in it.
I let it sit for a while (days) and even after some time and reapplications the moldy smell still remained every time I entered the bedroom. You can imagine my disapointment.
It was about a week later and only after buying and using about 3 other more expensive mold killing products (all natural I might add)I found advertised on amazon including two mold foggers, did my problem finally go away for good.
I want to give MOld control some credit because I believe it eventually did help but it was not the end all be all solution to my problem. I believe my mold issue was a fairly simple one compared to what I am reading on this website and I don’t think Mold control was effective alone.
Therefore, I would not recommend it alone for a serious mold issue. I just don’t think its strong enough to get the job done. I would say use it as a buffer but you are going to have to spend the money and get something more powerful.
I think part of your problem was a misunderstanding of the mechanism of how the Concrobium works. The product has to dry completely in order for it to work properly. If you weren’t using a dehumidifier in the room, then the spores were probably living fine off of what you were feeding them (water and the organic matter in your room). So, please don’t blame it on the Concrobium!
(btw, I do not work for, and am not associated with them, nor have even ever met or corresponded with any of them).
That being said, the Concrobium Mold Control has primarily a physical crushing action, which can only occur when the product dries. If you didn’t use a dehumidifier, the product probably never dried, and if the product never dried, then it didn’t crush and kill the spores! Also, you probably used too much of the concrobium, which is evident by what you said that it was spattered all over the walls. The mist is merely supposed to coat the spores, but not give them more moisture so that they can grow. I do hope your mold control issue is resolved!! Make sure you somehow solve that steam issue, or it will likely come back!! Best of luck!!
Thanks! I did purchase a dehumidifier but it was about a week after the initial application of concrobium. So I don’t know if that made a difference or not.
I did have the windows open. I purchased it because of the moisture. The dehumidifier has been in there for a week now and has hardly anything in it. So I don’t know.
Not knocking anyone else’s results. But for me personally, I found that the other products I purchased worked much faster and better then the concrobium did with resolving my mold issue.
So far so good its been over a week now and the air in my bedroom is actually cleaner than any other part of my apartment so it appears my mold problem has been resolved.
Can Concrobium be used and be expected to work well following and application of Boracare in a crawl space?
We have a space between kitchen sink plumbing and bathroom plumbing., a dead space. We found a leak on the bottom of the drain line off kitchen sink and the water had run into this dead space. It is fixed and dry now but you cannot get into space physically without tearing out kitchen cabinet. We see black on concrete in this space what do you recommend to spray into this area on the concrete to prevent mold?
Mold mitigation is only 1/2 the job. The other half is removing the moisture source. A good ventilation system can be much more efficient and cost effective than running a dehumidifier. The Wave Ventilation System (dryhousenow.com) is one. The website thisoldhouse.com (search wave ventilation) has many pages of discussion of this and some very clear descriptions of how to build a simple and effective ventilation system for a basement, garage, or attic for under $200.
According to this US EPA document, dated November 30, 2006, Concrobium is “approved for hard non-porous surfaces.” It is not EPA approved for porous surfaces such as wood, cement, sheet rock etc. see section VII part 2. http://www.epa.gov/opp00001/chem_search/cleared_reviews/csr_PC-073506_30-Nov-06_a.pdf
I apologize if this information is not the most current or if this has already been mentioned in these comments. I did not want to reread all the post.
Brad, you claim this product kills mold, but if that’s true, why did the EPA ask you to remove terminology that implies that?
See page 5 item 4 of the following PDF file from the EPA website:
Most of the information on the site indicates Concrobium is for use on walls. Is it recommended for seam caulk mold in a shower, too? If so, how should it be used and how fast does it work? How soon can you use the shower after applying Concrobium?
Would appreciate any other info about using for shower seam caulk mold.
I would not use the Concrobium for the shower caulking. The way concrobium works, it has to completely dry and harden. I don’t think you can get that dryness on shower caulking.
Have a old home and in the kitchen we get white particales on our silverware and small appliances when they are put in the cabinets after washing. Is this mold or something else? Any suggestion on how to get rid of it?
Where in Mid or northern Mi can i rent the fogger, no home depot or menards or lowes have the fogger, but they do sell the product. I am btween Saginaw MI and Houghton Lake MI. We are cleaning a cottage w/some black mold and need the fogger. thanks
My husband has a fold up invalid seat in the wetroom. The seat and the back are made of removeable gray rubber pads with a smooth finish. Because of where it is it needs regular cleaning to stop the mould build up, but try as I might I cannot get rid of all the patches of black mould that appear. Would Concrobium Mold Control or your Mould Stain Eraser work on these areas. Having tried Bleach and also other Mildew Removers which do cause me to have rhinitis, I would certanly like to give it ago.
In my cold room there is a wooden ceiling. Above that is cement which is the base for the front poarch. The wood portion is growing mold. Black in colour. The source of moisture has been eliminated. Will your product kill the mold from the wooden surface?
the apartment we live in is on the first floor. Everyone’s food and grease from the apartments above us end up in our sink on the first floor. So our sink backs up and our sink cabinet had mold and black mold in it. the people that own this building were supposed to replace it, but never did. I bought Concrobium mold control and sprayed it in the cabinet. The next time I looked at it, there was no mold, no black mold and the wood color came back to the color it was when it was new. I am not suggesting that you ever leave anything with black mold in your living space. But with land lords like ours you don’t have any choice.
Can concrobium mold control be used in a crawlspace under a room to prevent mold growth? A mold remediation company treated it for mold last year for the second time in four years. They also installed circulating fans and a dehumidifier, but I want to be proactive so as to prevent this in the future.
Andy, the publication you linked only suggested that Siamons needs to submit additional data and tests in order to verify its effectiveness on ALL surfaces as claim by the product.
In Part IV, you would see that they did submit a test data on mold-treated cotton fabric, which show it was 100% effective at killing the mold and that it prevented further mold growth for 2 months ongoing.
I guess that Siamons thought that this one test on a difficult porous surface like fabric would be enough to show the regulation people that their product works on any other surface, but some EPA nit-pick wanted them to submit more tests to prove that it worked on non-fabric surfaces like wood or concrete.
As a product-user, I can tell you first-hand that this stuff is amazing at getting rid of mold, the black stains literally falls off after I spray and let it dry. I haven’t used it for too long yet, so jury is still out on its preventative ability, but I have faith this product works as claim.
IMO, you guys are attacking the wrong source and wasting your money. Mold pores are everywhere in the air inside outside your home. I had air test and there were more mold pores in the air outside my house than inside the house. All it takes is a moist condition to reactivate. So dry up your wall and basement floor. You can get waterproof basement paint from Homedepot and start painting your walls and floors, or crystalized products like radonseal, xypex etc.. I personally use live enzyme bacteria liquid from sanitary supply, I mix it up with water, it works out like 30 cents a litre, it kills pet pee on carpet, smell, mold and it’s safe, enzyme is kind of like good bacteria roaming around your home to attack mold bacteria. Nothing is permanent, you open the door and windows, mold fly in, just keep your house dry with dehumidifier but not too much air pressure in and outside the house have to be balanced or moisture will go through concrete wall. Good luck.
will the product take the paint off the
drywall at the basement,can you use more
than once ??Jon
This product has worked well for us. I know that the enzyme approach is also effective. Large areas of mold indeed should be evaluated by a professional. Treatments like this are for small areas. There are lots of mold spores outside in many areas. We use a constant supply of filtered outdoor air to maintain as much positive air pressure as possible indoors and use dehumidifiers to eliminate excessive moisture. This product is rated “A” by the Environmental Working Group for those concerned about safety aspects.
I don’t want to ruin anyone’s day, but here’s the thing. ANYTHING that is used to kill mold will leave mold toxins behind. “A common misperception is that killing mold, which is a relatively easy task, eliminates risk from contaminated environments or items. Unfortunately, this does little to decrease the risk as nonviable fungal spores, fragments, and mycotoxins remain present and, due to their structure, such as with an epoxide ring,  they can be extremely difficult to destroy.” From here: http://www.hindawi.com/journals/tswj/2013/767482/ Any product that claims to denature mold toxins must be backed up with scientific studies including retesting for the presence of mycotoxins, NOT just spores. No product has ever been found to denature all mold toxins. If a person is not sensitive to the mold toxins, they may never notice symptoms. However, it is estimated that approximately 25% of the population is susceptible and will become ill, sometimes extremely ill. The symptoms of exposure to mycotoxins are toxin related, though, not allergic or infection related. Mold toxicity symptoms include headache, digestive problems, depression, heart problems, etc. Symptoms can mimic Lyme disease. Proper mold remediation includes removing all porous materials containing mold. Non-porous items can be cleaned.
Used the Consortium Mold Stain Eraser on my older van that I use to haul trash. I live in Washington state and only drive this vehicle once a month in winter. Needless to say it is always damp all the time here ; and I live on the water. Well I started growing quite a lab experiment and thought I all was lost. But the guy at the hardware store swears by this stuff… I mixed up a quart and sprayed it on the parts that were affected then wiped every surface I could (yes I wore a respirator). I had excellent results with treating the steering wheel, seats and seat belts and rubber near the window. It worked great o n every surface I treated. Because I was worried, I fogged the vents as well while running the A/C and then the heater until the car dried out. The rest of the car I wiped down since I figured there were spores everywhere. It’s simply the best product I’ve ever used for mold and mildew. Nothing was damaged and I have had zero growth since. In did wipeneverything down in the summer and retreated again. Still mold free. I highly recommend this for decks as well. I will update this comment if I have any recurrence before summer. PS for those of you that have a urine like smell, this is a smell put off by certain fungi when wet. You need to find the source and I recommend you use the Stain Eraser product for those areas.
Yesterday, I sprayed the entire bathroom from ceiling to flood with mold eraser. The is a heavy film over everythingthat I must wipe off. I’m not sure what I should us to get this white film off the marble.
These posts are hurting my brain. It took forever for anyone to point out that sodium carbonate and bicarb are not the same.
1. I think many of the posts are referring to mildew and allergenic molds, not the harmful black mold (Aspergillus) and Stachy. People see mildew and think “mold” which it isn’t. Mildew is much, much easier to kill, and much, much less dangerous in the short term. The people who have mold growing in subfloors, under surfaces, walls etc. likely have the toxic stuff. It also loves rafters, behind wall paneling, etc. If you have a mildew problem, get calcium chloride and watch it magically disappear. If you have mold, run a dehumidifier AND put calcium chloride (Damp Rid) everywhere. Dessication is the only way to prevent mold growth.
2. This product is a desiccant. No, it will not kill mycotoxins–but noting except 500 degree temperatures kills mycotoxins, so you’re going to have to use an air filter, vaccuum, what have you to get the mycotoxins out. I’d be willing to bet that it probably DOES kill Stachy and Aspergillus because it literally dries the stuff out–to the person pointing out the pH–yeah, no kidding. And if you knew the pH of the toxic stuff you used on your body and in your home you’d be freaking even more. Once it dries, you’re not inhaling it because it doesn’t offgass in the same way as paint. I WOULD however like to see something showing it does kill the toxic ones because it IS awfully inexpensive for something that would do that. BUT, having worked for a water damage remediation company for more than a decade, I can say that what the industry does is desiccate the crap out of your whole affected area after removing the water to starve mold. Most insurance does not cover mold damage because it causes health problems and they would lose a fortune–so the insurance pays regularly to PREVENT mold by extracting the water, drying and putting down anti-microbials, i.e. enzymes for “black water” and desiccants to dry it. Yes, it will dry out your mucous membranes–it’s a desiccant. That’s what it’s intended to do. But it’s a stronger method than the essential-oil based products, which smell good but don’t quite work as well.
FWIW, I’m also a human canary with mycotoxin issues, and I’m realistic: a no VOC (not-offgassing) method of drying the crap out of mold so that it can’t produce even MORE mycotoxins, while I take other preventive measures is better than the alternative which involves bonfires or dangerous extreme-heating. Because mold-remediation in an area never, ever ends.
I have cleaned the mold off the concrete and wood sections of my wall after removing the drywall. I used 10% Hydrogen Peroxide to clean and sprayed it on again to be sure. I have been told I need a product which will penetrate the wood, as while the surface is clean, the mold is still inside the wood. A glycol-borate product was recommended, but I wonder if Concrobium will penetrate the wood as well as glycol and borate product?
Thanks for all the great info everyone!
I love Concrobium Mold Control!
I have asthma & a very severe mold allergy that has almost claimed my life a few times now, & since then my body is on hyper-allert for mold. I can smell it or have a reaction to it when no one else even notices it at all.
Mold Control has been excellent for every issue I’ve run into so far! I had a leak in a roof vent. Sprayed everything very thoroughly with Mold Control, & I really did go overboard with the spraying because of the severity of my allergies. I painted the wood once the Mold Control dried. I sprayed it again after the pain dried. I haven’t had a problem there since.
There have been quite a few other places I’ve tried the mold control and all have been successful. My boyfriend left clothes in the washer in the summer & I didn’t know it. A few days I kept getting a terrible smell from the basement… Once I finally discovered the wet laundry, I went to Home Depot & bought a few huge jugs of Mold Control, & I washed his clothes in that. Originally we figured we’d have to throw out his clothes, but believe it or not, the Mold Control helped us to keep his clothes. There was no smell or problems with mold on his clothes afterwards.
Right now, I have a problem with my car, a 2011 Ford Edge. The heat system smells like mold just recently. We changed the cabon filter but that did not eliminate the problems. We sprayed the vents with Mold Control and the area where the cabin filter goes, and that made it much better but didn’t fix it completely. I have checked around and I’m bringing the car to a detailer who has a fogger. He uses a product called MiST, http://www.uview.com. I read on their website the product kills mold and helps to eliminate it’s growth. I told the detailer all about Mold Control and he’s going to check into it also. For now his system only uses this MiST product. I am hoping it will do the trick! I know my spraying of the car system with the Mold Control wasn’t sufficient but I don’t have a fogger. I have had so much success with concrobium Mold Control that I’d love to have it fogged throughout the car, but I don’t have a fogger, so I’ll give this MiST fogger a try at the detailers.
Just wanted to tell my story because if anyone has nearly as severe allergies to mold as I do…. Mold Control is seriously great!
Purchased on 3-28-17 at HomeDepot the house & deck wash: Removes dirt, grime and SURFACE mold & MILDEW STAINS. Where to use: What the instructions stated happened to include what I needed it for; Brick, masonry, stucco and outdoor fabric. Before purchasing the product I checked the website, watched the video and even called to make sure the product was safe for PAINTED concrete and bricks. “YES”, “No problems”. Well, I knew I was going to have to scrub some, I didn’t know it was going to be “scrub my butt off!”. I could’ve purchased a “bad bottle” (68oz) for It would not “spray” either. I have had better results (with the same amount of scrubbing) with Windex outdoor glass & patio. So needless to say I do not care for this product. Will continue looking, like looking for the best pizza.
I had a very bad mold problem in my home in which air-borne mold spores were all over the house. It seems that I was particularly sensitive to air-borne mold as opposed to mold on surfaces as I was able to live in the home for 7 years without any allergic reactions.
We found the source which was moldy items in the bottoms of closets and moldy carpet liners. The moldy items, including all carpets and liners were removed. Then I had professional remediation done in the half of the home where the mold was found. I was able to isolate that side of my house and the HVAC was off the entire time so as not to circulate spores. New hardwood floors were then installed in place of the carpet. I then removed all of my remaining belongings except furniture and did a DIY remediation of the other half of my home with Concrobium and a fogger. I heavily fogged any cloth chairs and my mattress and box spring and let them dry completely. After fogging I let the concrobium dry fully then used a 70 pint dehumidifier and commercial HEPA units for days. These are still running and have been running for 10 days. For good measure I also refogged the half of the home that had been professionally remediated.
Now I am having a reaction to something else. My allergic reactions to mold caused symptoms such as burning lips, tongue, and nausea. But my symptoms are different now. Within a couple of hours my lungs/chest gets sore, my tongue feels coated and I feel a bit sick. But my lips and mouth do not burn which happened in reaction to mold. The entire house has been wiped down twice with water and dried including the floors and all non-porous surfaces to remove the concrobium film. I am keeping the home cool (around 75F) and under 50% relative humidity. But it does not seem to be enough to reduce my reaction post-remediation.
Has anyone had this type of reaction? I assume I am reacting to either the concrobium film or the mold mycotoxins people are mentioning in these posts. A friend who was assisting me is having the same post-remediation reaction. She also has strong mold allergies. The two cleaning ladies that wiped down all surfaces and floors had no reaction at all and are not allergic to mold.
I have two questions:
1] Can someone from Concrobium or another person familiar with post-remediation symptoms please respond and let me know if some people react to the concrobium film or associated break down products?
2] Also, I do still see a light film of concrobium on many parts of my floors. I assume there is still some film on non-porous surfaces as well. I was hesitant to use an actual cleaning agent but would like to know if there are cleaning agents that are safe to use on remaining concrobium film.
Please help! I have not been able to live in my home for a couple months now and will likely have to sell the home if this cannot be resolved.
Stored cars in steel building. Away on vacay 3 weeks. Humidity over 60% in building whilst away. 9 of 14 cars had mild mold, some moderate, some severe.
Let’s be clear Concrobium is Tri-Sodium Phospate…TSP…well known in painting trade as what to clean walls/concrete with before covering with paint etc.
Phoned company for specifics..important to LET IT DRY before wiping clean. Ideally 24 hours. Leather interiors, e.g. Ferrari…don’t like being moist from spray for too long. Test first someplace unimportant /out of sight.
Are you still having still having these symptoms? I have mold in my home which caused a yeast overgrowth in my gut giving me these same symptoms.
Possibly the mold spores were disrupted from the wiping down making them airborne?
@Karen & @Baris
Me and my two young children are experiencing similar symptoms. We have had nothing but allergies, asthma, and yeast infections of all sorts since the remediation, which involved a similar process as Karen’s. My daughters never had asthma before, but they do now. I can no longer use any chemical to clean or tolerate any fragrance in my home. Their father is fine and thinks I am crazy. I wish we had just moved.
Concrobium contains sodium carbonate?? A quick internet search reveals sodium carbonate is known to cause concrete deterioration from salt crystallization. How do you explain your recommendation to use this on concrete?
We tried bombing with biocide which it turns out is only effective against certain molds so it did not help us. Concrobium did.
Hi, I keep searching online to find out if concrobium can leave plywood smelling (all I find is that it’s odorless). I have been concerned about this because I wanted to know that my fogging application didn’t overwet the plywood subfloor (and seep into the cracks and become trapped below. I wanted to make sure that the smell I was smelling when I sniffed into the corners of the room or after drilling into the wood – wasn’t a reemergence of mold from too much moisture. I used fans galore and heaters especially pointing into the corners of the plywood subfloor. I also run a dehumidifier nonstop and have kept the room at 25% humidity.
It’s now been six days since I fogged. The room (with only plywood floors) has smelled a bit weird since after fogging, but I think it’s been getting a little better? Today I drilled a screw into the plywood and then removed it. I then crouched on the floor and sniffed the hole and I smelled that smell again through the little hole. After one hour now, the little hole doesn’t really smell much anymore. I’m like, what is that smell – same smell I’ve been smelling? Then I decided to smell the left over concrobium solution I have left in a couple containers. It smells exactly like that!!
Well, I guess that’s fine if it smells a little… I just want to make sure that smell isn’t mold… but it smells just like concrobium (which is supposed to be odorless, but that’s definitely not the case). Can anyone else please verify this with me (Brad?). It does actually have a pretty strong smell, right? And perhaps when I drilled into the floor, the smell of the product was inside of the plywood and got released again.
As I said, the room still smells like concrobium and I’m certain it’s coming from the plywood floors. Is there anything I should do now to neutralize this smell before we tile the floor? Thank you so much.
Anyway, I’m thinking after we tile the floor, I shouldn’t notice the smell anymore. Just happy to know that what I’m smelling is just the product. :)