Product Review: Concrobium Mold Control

Hi Darlene – my name is Brad and I am with Siamons International, the manufacturer of Concrobium Mold Control®. I thought it might help if I addressed your questions directly.

Your first question is whether Concrobium Mold Control just “encapsulates” mold, which implies that the solution just “covers” or “traps” the mold. Some antimicrobial solutions are just ‘encapsulants’, but Concrobium Mold Control goes further than encapsulation; as it dries over the moldy surface it forms an antimicrobial shield that actually eliminates the mold and mildew underneath.

Your second question regards the need for re-application. In addition to eliminating mold, Concrobium Mold Control stays on surfaces – in the form of an invisible antimicrobial shield – to prevent mold and mildew growth. As long as that shield is intact, the treated surface retains a protective barrier that will prevent the growth of mold and mildew. Reapplication is only necessary if that barrier is removed or covered with a new surface. So if the surface receives constant dousing with water (e.g. a shower stall), or resurfaced (painted) or becomes very soiled, it is recommended that the Concrobium Mold Control be reapplied. Otherwise reapplication should not be required.

Your third question regards the ingredients of Concrobium Mold Control. You are correct that the solution is 0.95% sodium carbonate, but there are two other ingredients which, combined with the sodium carbonate and the water, result in this unique, patented solution that eliminates and prevents mold. The solution contains no bleach, ammonia or VOCs. Our Material Safety Data Sheet is posted on our web site: http://www.concrobium.com/US/advantage.html.

Your final question asked whether the product is EPA-registered or EPA-approved. The answer is the former: Concrobium Mold Control is EPA-registered, which means that our science has been reviewed by the EPA and that we are allowed to make the claims that the product eliminates and prevents mold. Note that any manufacturer who claims that their product eliminates or prevents mold WITHOUT EPA registration is breaking the law. To the point about EPA “approval”, it is our understanding that the EPA does not “approve” or “endorse” antimicrobial products, so “registration” is the only term that applies in this situation.

I hope these answers help. If you have any more questions or would like to discuss further, please don’t hesitate to call us at 1-866-811-4148 or email us at [email protected].

Brad,
Since the link to “Our Material Safety Data sheet” wont open? I think that what I paid for your product at $5.95 for baking soda is a big disappointment. I have had no success with this product and followed the directions.

Baking soda is sodium bicarbonate. Notice the “bi” prefix. Concrobium is sodium carbonate. No “bi” prefix.

I have windows to paint and wonder about using your product before painting. Will it affect the adhesion of the paint, or should I wipe it off after it has dried?

Appreciate you comments.

Get the MSDS here http://www.safetyexpress.com/Services/media/MSDS/Restoration/Concrobium.pdf And as mentioned, it is NOT baking soda, look it up. Also read the testimonials here http://www.verdeii.com/mold.html

I noticed in two separate corner locations in my house where the water overflowed from my plant and when I went to move the plant this weekend I noticed mold on my carpet. When I investigated further I found: under my carpet and underpad was an area of 4 sqft where mold was present, on my baseboard, behind baseboard on drywall, behind drywall on 2X4 beams. So basically in one area I removed the 2X4 and installed new one, I removed drywall and base board in the corner areas and sprayed the wood and wiped it with concrobium. I have an issue with some of the things I am reading with respect to does it KILL it or cover it because I don’t wanna seal up with new plastic, insulation, drywall, etc and then it’s still alive in my walls. Should I fog the area basically getting everything? How can I be assured everything is captured? What would you do if you were I? Help!

Will we need to cover everything (clothes, dishes etc) on the floor above if we use fogger in the basement crawl?

Is their a shelf life for Concrobium? In other words an expiration date.
Ken

Concrombium is truly a wonder and I am mystified about why it is not better known. We had a terrible battle with mold after the humidity level in our home got out of control. Slowly but surely mold was taking over our indoor air space, yet for a long time we could find no visible mold. I researched and researched and used a variety of methods, from the old stand-bys (bleach) to the alternative (tea tree oil and grapefruit seed extract mixtures). When I finally discovered mold on the insides of our vents, I was having constant headaches and sneezing and my kids went from having asthma that was rarely a problem to having to take powerful asthma medications on a daily basis (at a cost of $300 per month for the two of them). Our health was in danger and we were miserable in our house. I lost every shoe I owned to mold growth in my closet. I couldn’t breathe well at night. When I discovered my favorite upholstered chair had gone moldy beneath its slipcover I broke down in tears (and threw it out in the trash). I discovered mold on the books and the wall hangings. I got to the point where I felt completely defeated–even if we could move, how could we throw out everything we owned and start over again? When I finally discovered Concrombium, I was hopeful, but skeptical. After all, if it was so great, why could I find nothing online about it? Why wasn’t it being recommended on government websites regarding mold remediation. But I bought a bottle and I used it inside the most troublesome air vent. The smell was neutralized for a few days, and I knew there was a shot–even if it didn’t end up working, the price was so low I could take the chance on it. I rented a concrobium fogger from Home Depot, deposited my kids at my sister’s, and then got to work. I fogged every room of my house. I fogged the closets, the clothes, I did my best to fog inside all the air vents and air returns. I fogged the crawlspace beneath the house, I fogged the attic. I fogged every single spot that the fog could possibly reach. And my house smelled completely neutral; it was beautiful. (Then I washed all the clothes that I had fogged, they will get somewhat sticky, but every piece of clothing survived, nothing was ruined, and nothing smelled moldy anymore.) After a few weeks, I was disappointed to discover an occasional tiny waft of moldy smell in my bedroom; it continued and I couldn’t figure out where it was coming from. This disappointment was tempered by the fact that the overall mold smell was gone, but I was frustrated and I was reacting to it with sneezing and difficulty breathing again. Finally, my husband discovered the source. It was coming from inside my velvet lined jewelry box, which had been closed during the fogging. Problem now solved. I know this is long, and I apologize for that, but I truly feel this product deserves more than a cursory glance, and it deserves better than people dismissing it without giving it a true test (for instance, you can’t expect it to work if the problems that caused the mold aren’t solved–for us, that meant the installation of a sump pump to control the excessive humidity from the earth in our crawl space plus dehumidification inside our house during the summer–but once those fixes were in place, the mold floating around in our house still needed to be neutralized). A few months after our grand fogging experience, my kids had their best lung function tests ever! Unfortunately, they still require their medications and I think the overexposure to mold is something their bodies will have to recover from for a long time–and the same is true for me. But we now live in a home that smells clean and has healthy air. We couldn’t have done it without Concrobium. The cost of the treatment was about $100 total, the majority of that was the fogger rental. If you are looking into a major mold remediation project, try concrombium first. It’s simple, it’s non-toxic, it’s cheap. And it’s not too good to be true. It works.

I’m very upset that this product did not work for us. After reading all of these blogs and going over the website, we rented a fogger and bought the Concrobium at Home Depot. My husband went by the letter and did exactly what was instructed. He fogged our attic which was where the problem originally was and found the fogger easy to use. We were confident that we would be OK. The product was dry for about a week when the mold inspector came to do his air quality test for our homeowner’s insurance company. Our numbers were extremely high! Now we will have to hire someone for much more money and have the testing done again! The $350 fee was high to us. I can’t even imagine what it will cost for professional remediation. We are so upset that we can’t catch a break.

Mold control has worked wonderful in my basement you still have to do your part and make sure the humidity levels are low as well as move the air once in a while (i have a fan on a timer) and reduce clutter. Darlene if mold is getting behind your walls you have to attack the water coming in, in the first place.

Please take the time to hsve a look at this website. It is the only multi -product website for mold, algae, and mildew in Canada. A huge amount of information and application tips.
Cheers,
Doug

A few quick answers to your questions above, though you’ve no doubt tracked us down via our web site:

1. Concrobium Mold Control is primarily designed for interior surfaces, however it can be used on outdoor surfaces (a lot of people use it on boat exteriors, for example). The only issue with using the product for outdoor mold protection is that rain and moisture will wear away at the antimicrobial film, which means that more frequent re-application is necessary. We have developed a product called Mold Defense for outdoor use. More information is available at http://www.concrobium.com.

2. We do recommend the tri-jet fogger or any other cold fogger for treating large or inaccessible areas (like a musty basement or attic) with Concrobium Mold Control. Simply follow the instructions listed on our web site to mist the area, coat all surfaces with the product and allow to dry. Continuous treatment is not necessary; one application should do the trick.

3. When fogging, all items that may be harmed by moisture should be removed or covered. This would include but not be limited to home electronics, artwork and books. I would also remove clothing as the product, if over-applied, can leave a light film on surfaces.

4. Regarding subflooring, yes, spraying Concrobium Mold Control on the surface and allowing to dry will eradicate existing mold and prevent regrowth. Note that the original water source that created the mold (humidity, water intrusion) should also be addressed.

5. Yes, we do publish an expiry date for Concrobium Mold Control. It is printed on each bottle. Our current studies are showing no efficacy reduction after 6 years.

6. Insulation can be placed on top of a surface once it has been treated with Concrobium Mold Control. Just ensure that 1) the water source that caused the mold in the first place has been addressed and 2) that the surface has been thoroughly treated and the product has been allowed to dry. Note that Concrobium can only work on a surface it makes contact with; if there is mold on the underside of a surface and Concrobium does make contact with that side, the mold will remain and may continue to grow.

You can paint over a Concrobium-treated surface as soon as the Concrobium solution has dried, which in a typical indoor environment takes a few hours max. So certainly you could paint the next day. Please note that latex-based paints adhere best to a Concrobium-treated surface. If you plan on using an oil-based paint please consider a latex primer.
Please note that if you require quick response to any Concrobium questions we welcome you to visit us at http://www.concrobium.com and to contact us using the CONTACT US info. Thanks!

Hi Johnny. If you would be kind enough to email us at [email protected] or call us at 1-866-811-4148 we’d be happy to provide advice on how best to deal with your mold issue. Thanks!

I have been using Concrobium Mold Control since it was first introduced in the US. I am in the Northeast and had to get it from Florida at first. We always had mold in the a/c unit and our a/c ductwork when opened in the spring and kept replacing ductwork and bleaching the unit until we found Concrobium. Now DH fogs the return duct in the fall and we have never seen any mold since either in the unit or ductwork. Just as a precaution he does it again before we fire it up in the spring but really feel this is overkill. Only problem with the outdoor Mold Defense is Home Depot does not carry it up here and when it first came out I ordered some as we had a shed that was completely covered with mold. We cleaned it off and sprayed Mold Defense on and the next spring — no mold came back – as a precaution we sprayed it again with Mold Defense and again this year not one speck of mold. Before that every year after the winter was over it quickly became covered with mold so don’t let anyone tell you the products from Siamons do not work — they do. The only down side is the white residue that is left sometimes from overspraying or overfogging an area or drips on the floor. However, that is easily cleaned up with – guess what – Concrobium. One day I am going to have DH fog each room and I intend to wallpaper so will clean the wall with Concrobium first. It is truly a wonderful and safe product and I always have some on hand.

Years ago we had professional remediation at $30,000 and could never afford a repeat so Concrobium has saved the day for us. DH fogs the basement occasionally as we do get water in maybe 2x/year and have a large 4×4 pit with the sewer pipe and sump pump. Our basement never smells musty.

However, since Concrobium is not concentrated but already mixed I do put a bit of concentrated Moldzyme in my 3 dehumidifier buckets daily to prevent any mold buildup in them and it cuts down on cleaning them out. Now I only clean them once per month. Also, I use fragrance free baby wipes to dust with (except my wood paneling which I use regular wood cleaner on) as I was told by a remediator that the enzymes in them clean up any mold spores. That in conjunction with Concrobium has kept my high humidty house mold free for years.

FOR BRAD FROM CONCROBIUM:

(I’ve tried asking this question through the Concrobium website, but nobody has posted it or responded to it. Please do respond!)

My concern about Concrobium has to do with its EXTREMELY alkaline (base) pH. The MSDS shows a potential pH of 11.5. That’s an intense alkali!

Questions about this:

1. Most building and cleaning products (paints, primers, sealants, adhesives, tapes, fasteners, cleaning sprays, etc.) specify to “avoid strong alkalis or acids”. In many cases, that’s because the products will produce extremely toxic decomposition vapors (formaldehyde, chlorine gas, etc!) when exposed to an extreme pH substance! In other cases, it’s because the product will fail — lose its adhesion, disintegrate, etc.

So how can you advise homeowners to spray Concrobium on surfaces — and LEAVE it there — that may later need to have other products applied to it, or that may already have such products’ residues on them?

2. How can you claim a health risk of zero on the MSDS, for a product with an extreme pH? If it’s a strong alkali coating, it will tend to irritate skin, dry out skin, and especially irritate or damage eyes, right? By definition?

Here’s hoping there’s some good explanation that will set our minds at ease. We’d love to use Concrobium throughout our home. But not until this issue is fully addressed.

I notice that you ignored a previous poster who asked whether Concrobium might cause paint/primer to fail.

Really, this issue is absolutely crucial for the safety and well-being of your customers, so it is time to address it publicly.

I hope you will reply this time, in this venue.

Thank you.

i’m willing to try this product, how does this work on plaster walls? any different procedure?

I find your product smells like urine which is worse than the musty smell of mold. Does this odour go away? I hope so it is horrible. My husband has used your product to get rid of the mold in cold air return. Please advise about the urine smell coming from your product.

PS: didn’t mean to insult readers — just angry that a scam like concrobium has so many gullable followers. I’m guessing it probably costs them about $0.25 a gallon to make and package, ( $0.15 for the bottle) and should sell for about $3 – $4 a gallon like clorox.

Very useful information, but has anyone done an AIR mold test before and after using this product??

Thanks!

This stuff is great!! I don’t know why I didn’t hear about it until today, it took care of problem and it did not smell at all. EXCELLENT Liz

I see a lot of people talking about using Concrobium, and then using bleach to remove the stains. I have some mold in my attic due to bathroom fans being vented to the attic improperly. Now that that has been fixed would there be any reason why you wouldn’t use bleach first to remove the stains, and then use Concrobium to protect from future mold? Just curious.

Where can I purchase “Mould stain eraser” ?

I’m a mold remediation contractor and was considering this product for using during our remediation projects. Would it this product be used to “seal” mold spores to a surface and control the ambient spores before a post testing?
In other words will it help if we fog an area to cut down on mold spores which may still be airborne.
Thanks

We have an extensive amount of mold on our unfinished basement subflooring due to a water heater that burst making our basement like a steam room. We were advised to spray it all with a solution of bleach and water. Now we have found out that bleach is not effective on porous surfaces and must treat with somethng else. We would like to try concorbium but I read the post that said it was ineffective if it was applied over bleach. The person who posted this was unable to reference where this informaton was found, but if it true, and I trust that it proably is, will srayiny with water be enough to remove the bleach soluton. I wouldn,t know what else to do. We sprayed pretty heavy with the bleach solution. Since concorbium has its own stain remover, why would anyone to use bleach, except for the cost. For those who complain that the product is overpriced based on the inexpensive cost of the ingredients of this product,they must remember the company has to pay for advertisement, maintainence of a production plant,employees, as well as the many other expenses it takes to run a company. If those who complain about the cost happen to call a professional remediation service, they might really have something to complain about. Anyway, I would really like a response from someone from the company to confirm whether the bleach application will make the product ineffective and, if t does, what should I do about it.
Jane-August 19, 2013

I would like to respond to both Stephanie, and Jane.

Stephanie, so that you know, Concrobium is quite basic (caustic), probably above a pH of 10, and maybe higher. Your saddle is made from organic material (leather), that breaks down under caustic conditions. I personally would not want to use it on a saddle. I think you could damage it.

Jane, the person that indicated that you cannot use Concrobium over bleach, I believe is incorrect. As some background, bleach is made by reacting chlorine with NaOH (Caustic) to make NaOCl (Bleach), plus NaCl (table salt), plus water. When it decomposes, it basically makes salt, gives off an oxygen radical, which ultimately combines to make elemental oxygen. So, all you have left are salt, and water (evaporated) and oxygen (gone).

Concrobium is a mixed salt of sodium carbonate and sodium phosphate (with only some of the sites on the phosphate neutralized), and might have another one or more anti-mold agent. When you put it down on a surface and it dries, the salt crystals contract, thereby puncturing the mold spores, thereby killing them.
If I were you, I would go ahead and use the concrobium, but get yourself a dehumidifier and dry it out as quickly as possible so the spores don’t have time to grow before the Concrobium can do its thing.
In my estimation, Concrobium’s primary mode of action is mechanical, so drying it out so that it can form the polymer chain and then shrink is important.

Good luck with your project!

“the product is 0.95% sodium carbonate”
…”You are correct that the solution is 0.95% sodium carbonate”…..

Do you mean 95% or 0.95%, as you have written. .95% is less than 1%, so how can it be such a big deal??
If you mean 95%, then …. how can we take you seriously. Bad joke but I couldn’t resist.

Concrobium Mold Control worked wonders for me. I was living in a rented place where the landlords refused to fix a serious leak in the basement time and time again. I got sicker and sicker. I could not get over one sinus infection before I came down with the next one, and I was always tired. There’s more, but it’s too much for this blog. The air test results I hired a professional for, proved that the levels of airborne mold were out of control, even after I pulled fresh air throughout the place.

There was no way I could stay there. When I moved, I had to clean EVERYTHING I owned on the way out of that place and on the way into my new place. It was slow and excruciating, but I was unemployed, sick and desperate. I didn’t know about foggers then, but I came up with the idea of using a “backpack” sprayer which I filled (and refilled) and sprayed all furniture and everything I owned, except for linen and clothes which I washed in very hot soapy water. As I removed my belongings, I put them out on a table or by the spraying table in the parking lot – sprayed – and then my friends helped me pack them onto the truck.

Since I was unemployed, I tried to hang some dry cleaning clothes outside for 6 weeks. Even after six weeks, they still smelled like mold, that’s how unbelievably difficult mold is to remove.

I left the mold infested place 2 years ago this week. Suffice it to say, I have not been sick in two years.

Signed, Very Grateful

I have read that a strong solution of 10% Hydrogen Peroxide and boric acid is great mold killer. The Peroxide also acts as a stain remover also. I am thinking of using this solution to kill the mold and using a sealant like forticel. Look, I just want to mold gone as best as it can be and don’t want to do the work over. I know to stop all the leaks that started the problem. Is there any reason why this set up will not work? Could I use Concrobium in between the two coats as an insurance policy? Or use Concrobium as the first coat and the peroxide mix as the second coat for stains?

Have mold in rafter bays in kneewall space. How would you go about applying concrobium with cold fogger? Would this be my solution.

Hello ihatemold!
I think part of your problem was a misunderstanding of the mechanism of how the Concrobium works. The product has to dry completely in order for it to work properly. If you weren’t using a dehumidifier in the room, then the spores were probably living fine off of what you were feeding them (water and the organic matter in your room). So, please don’t blame it on the Concrobium!
(btw, I do not work for, and am not associated with them, nor have even ever met or corresponded with any of them).
That being said, the Concrobium Mold Control has primarily a physical crushing action, which can only occur when the product dries. If you didn’t use a dehumidifier, the product probably never dried, and if the product never dried, then it didn’t crush and kill the spores! Also, you probably used too much of the concrobium, which is evident by what you said that it was spattered all over the walls. The mist is merely supposed to coat the spores, but not give them more moisture so that they can grow. I do hope your mold control issue is resolved!! Make sure you somehow solve that steam issue, or it will likely come back!! Best of luck!!

Can Concrobium be used and be expected to work well following and application of Boracare in a crawl space?

Mold mitigation is only 1/2 the job. The other half is removing the moisture source. A good ventilation system can be much more efficient and cost effective than running a dehumidifier. The Wave Ventilation System (dryhousenow.com) is one. The website thisoldhouse.com (search wave ventilation) has many pages of discussion of this and some very clear descriptions of how to build a simple and effective ventilation system for a basement, garage, or attic for under $200.

Brad, you claim this product kills mold, but if that’s true, why did the EPA ask you to remove terminology that implies that?

See page 5 item 4 of the following PDF file from the EPA website:
http://www.epa.gov/opp00001/chem_search/cleared_reviews/csr_PC-073506_30-Nov-06_a.pdf

Hello Robert,
I would not use the Concrobium for the shower caulking. The way concrobium works, it has to completely dry and harden. I don’t think you can get that dryness on shower caulking.

Where in Mid or northern Mi can i rent the fogger, no home depot or menards or lowes have the fogger, but they do sell the product. I am btween Saginaw MI and Houghton Lake MI. We are cleaning a cottage w/some black mold and need the fogger. thanks

In my cold room there is a wooden ceiling. Above that is cement which is the base for the front poarch. The wood portion is growing mold. Black in colour. The source of moisture has been eliminated. Will your product kill the mold from the wooden surface?

Can concrobium mold control be used in a crawlspace under a room to prevent mold growth? A mold remediation company treated it for mold last year for the second time in four years. They also installed circulating fans and a dehumidifier, but I want to be proactive so as to prevent this in the future.

IMO, you guys are attacking the wrong source and wasting your money. Mold pores are everywhere in the air inside outside your home. I had air test and there were more mold pores in the air outside my house than inside the house. All it takes is a moist condition to reactivate. So dry up your wall and basement floor. You can get waterproof basement paint from Homedepot and start painting your walls and floors, or crystalized products like radonseal, xypex etc.. I personally use live enzyme bacteria liquid from sanitary supply, I mix it up with water, it works out like 30 cents a litre, it kills pet pee on carpet, smell, mold and it’s safe, enzyme is kind of like good bacteria roaming around your home to attack mold bacteria. Nothing is permanent, you open the door and windows, mold fly in, just keep your house dry with dehumidifier but not too much air pressure in and outside the house have to be balanced or moisture will go through concrete wall. Good luck.

This product has worked well for us. I know that the enzyme approach is also effective. Large areas of mold indeed should be evaluated by a professional. Treatments like this are for small areas. There are lots of mold spores outside in many areas. We use a constant supply of filtered outdoor air to maintain as much positive air pressure as possible indoors and use dehumidifiers to eliminate excessive moisture. This product is rated “A” by the Environmental Working Group for those concerned about safety aspects.

Used the Consortium Mold Stain Eraser on my older van that I use to haul trash. I live in Washington state and only drive this vehicle once a month in winter. Needless to say it is always damp all the time here ; and I live on the water. Well I started growing quite a lab experiment and thought I all was lost. But the guy at the hardware store swears by this stuff… I mixed up a quart and sprayed it on the parts that were affected then wiped every surface I could (yes I wore a respirator). I had excellent results with treating the steering wheel, seats and seat belts and rubber near the window. It worked great o n every surface I treated. Because I was worried, I fogged the vents as well while running the A/C and then the heater until the car dried out. The rest of the car I wiped down since I figured there were spores everywhere. It’s simply the best product I’ve ever used for mold and mildew. Nothing was damaged and I have had zero growth since. In did wipeneverything down in the summer and retreated again. Still mold free. I highly recommend this for decks as well. I will update this comment if I have any recurrence before summer. PS for those of you that have a urine like smell, this is a smell put off by certain fungi when wet. You need to find the source and I recommend you use the Stain Eraser product for those areas.

These posts are hurting my brain. It took forever for anyone to point out that sodium carbonate and bicarb are not the same.
1. I think many of the posts are referring to mildew and allergenic molds, not the harmful black mold (Aspergillus) and Stachy. People see mildew and think “mold” which it isn’t. Mildew is much, much easier to kill, and much, much less dangerous in the short term. The people who have mold growing in subfloors, under surfaces, walls etc. likely have the toxic stuff. It also loves rafters, behind wall paneling, etc. If you have a mildew problem, get calcium chloride and watch it magically disappear. If you have mold, run a dehumidifier AND put calcium chloride (Damp Rid) everywhere. Dessication is the only way to prevent mold growth.
2. This product is a desiccant. No, it will not kill mycotoxins–but noting except 500 degree temperatures kills mycotoxins, so you’re going to have to use an air filter, vaccuum, what have you to get the mycotoxins out. I’d be willing to bet that it probably DOES kill Stachy and Aspergillus because it literally dries the stuff out–to the person pointing out the pH–yeah, no kidding. And if you knew the pH of the toxic stuff you used on your body and in your home you’d be freaking even more. Once it dries, you’re not inhaling it because it doesn’t offgass in the same way as paint. I WOULD however like to see something showing it does kill the toxic ones because it IS awfully inexpensive for something that would do that. BUT, having worked for a water damage remediation company for more than a decade, I can say that what the industry does is desiccate the crap out of your whole affected area after removing the water to starve mold. Most insurance does not cover mold damage because it causes health problems and they would lose a fortune–so the insurance pays regularly to PREVENT mold by extracting the water, drying and putting down anti-microbials, i.e. enzymes for “black water” and desiccants to dry it. Yes, it will dry out your mucous membranes–it’s a desiccant. That’s what it’s intended to do. But it’s a stronger method than the essential-oil based products, which smell good but don’t quite work as well.
FWIW, I’m also a human canary with mycotoxin issues, and I’m realistic: a no VOC (not-offgassing) method of drying the crap out of mold so that it can’t produce even MORE mycotoxins, while I take other preventive measures is better than the alternative which involves bonfires or dangerous extreme-heating. Because mold-remediation in an area never, ever ends.

I love Concrobium Mold Control!
I have asthma & a very severe mold allergy that has almost claimed my life a few times now, & since then my body is on hyper-allert for mold. I can smell it or have a reaction to it when no one else even notices it at all.
Mold Control has been excellent for every issue I’ve run into so far! I had a leak in a roof vent. Sprayed everything very thoroughly with Mold Control, & I really did go overboard with the spraying because of the severity of my allergies. I painted the wood once the Mold Control dried. I sprayed it again after the pain dried. I haven’t had a problem there since.
There have been quite a few other places I’ve tried the mold control and all have been successful. My boyfriend left clothes in the washer in the summer & I didn’t know it. A few days I kept getting a terrible smell from the basement… Once I finally discovered the wet laundry, I went to Home Depot & bought a few huge jugs of Mold Control, & I washed his clothes in that. Originally we figured we’d have to throw out his clothes, but believe it or not, the Mold Control helped us to keep his clothes. There was no smell or problems with mold on his clothes afterwards.
Right now, I have a problem with my car, a 2011 Ford Edge. The heat system smells like mold just recently. We changed the cabon filter but that did not eliminate the problems. We sprayed the vents with Mold Control and the area where the cabin filter goes, and that made it much better but didn’t fix it completely. I have checked around and I’m bringing the car to a detailer who has a fogger. He uses a product called MiST, http://www.uview.com. I read on their website the product kills mold and helps to eliminate it’s growth. I told the detailer all about Mold Control and he’s going to check into it also. For now his system only uses this MiST product. I am hoping it will do the trick! I know my spraying of the car system with the Mold Control wasn’t sufficient but I don’t have a fogger. I have had so much success with concrobium Mold Control that I’d love to have it fogged throughout the car, but I don’t have a fogger, so I’ll give this MiST fogger a try at the detailers.
Just wanted to tell my story because if anyone has nearly as severe allergies to mold as I do…. Mold Control is seriously great!

I had a very bad mold problem in my home in which air-borne mold spores were all over the house. It seems that I was particularly sensitive to air-borne mold as opposed to mold on surfaces as I was able to live in the home for 7 years without any allergic reactions.
We found the source which was moldy items in the bottoms of closets and moldy carpet liners. The moldy items, including all carpets and liners were removed. Then I had professional remediation done in the half of the home where the mold was found. I was able to isolate that side of my house and the HVAC was off the entire time so as not to circulate spores. New hardwood floors were then installed in place of the carpet. I then removed all of my remaining belongings except furniture and did a DIY remediation of the other half of my home with Concrobium and a fogger. I heavily fogged any cloth chairs and my mattress and box spring and let them dry completely. After fogging I let the concrobium dry fully then used a 70 pint dehumidifier and commercial HEPA units for days. These are still running and have been running for 10 days. For good measure I also refogged the half of the home that had been professionally remediated.
Now I am having a reaction to something else. My allergic reactions to mold caused symptoms such as burning lips, tongue, and nausea. But my symptoms are different now. Within a couple of hours my lungs/chest gets sore, my tongue feels coated and I feel a bit sick. But my lips and mouth do not burn which happened in reaction to mold. The entire house has been wiped down twice with water and dried including the floors and all non-porous surfaces to remove the concrobium film. I am keeping the home cool (around 75F) and under 50% relative humidity. But it does not seem to be enough to reduce my reaction post-remediation.
Has anyone had this type of reaction? I assume I am reacting to either the concrobium film or the mold mycotoxins people are mentioning in these posts. A friend who was assisting me is having the same post-remediation reaction. She also has strong mold allergies. The two cleaning ladies that wiped down all surfaces and floors had no reaction at all and are not allergic to mold.
I have two questions:
1] Can someone from Concrobium or another person familiar with post-remediation symptoms please respond and let me know if some people react to the concrobium film or associated break down products?
2] Also, I do still see a light film of concrobium on many parts of my floors. I assume there is still some film on non-porous surfaces as well. I was hesitant to use an actual cleaning agent but would like to know if there are cleaning agents that are safe to use on remaining concrobium film.
Please help! I have not been able to live in my home for a couple months now and will likely have to sell the home if this cannot be resolved.

@Karen

Are you still having still having these symptoms? I have mold in my home which caused a yeast overgrowth in my gut giving me these same symptoms.

Possibly the mold spores were disrupted from the wiping down making them airborne?

Concrobium contains sodium carbonate?? A quick internet search reveals sodium carbonate is known to cause concrete deterioration from salt crystallization. How do you explain your recommendation to use this on concrete?

Hi, I keep searching online to find out if concrobium can leave plywood smelling (all I find is that it’s odorless). I have been concerned about this because I wanted to know that my fogging application didn’t overwet the plywood subfloor (and seep into the cracks and become trapped below. I wanted to make sure that the smell I was smelling when I sniffed into the corners of the room or after drilling into the wood – wasn’t a reemergence of mold from too much moisture. I used fans galore and heaters especially pointing into the corners of the plywood subfloor. I also run a dehumidifier nonstop and have kept the room at 25% humidity.

It’s now been six days since I fogged. The room (with only plywood floors) has smelled a bit weird since after fogging, but I think it’s been getting a little better? Today I drilled a screw into the plywood and then removed it. I then crouched on the floor and sniffed the hole and I smelled that smell again through the little hole. After one hour now, the little hole doesn’t really smell much anymore. I’m like, what is that smell – same smell I’ve been smelling? Then I decided to smell the left over concrobium solution I have left in a couple containers. It smells exactly like that!!

Well, I guess that’s fine if it smells a little… I just want to make sure that smell isn’t mold… but it smells just like concrobium (which is supposed to be odorless, but that’s definitely not the case). Can anyone else please verify this with me (Brad?). It does actually have a pretty strong smell, right? And perhaps when I drilled into the floor, the smell of the product was inside of the plywood and got released again.

As I said, the room still smells like concrobium and I’m certain it’s coming from the plywood floors. Is there anything I should do now to neutralize this smell before we tile the floor? Thank you so much.

Anyway, I’m thinking after we tile the floor, I shouldn’t notice the smell anymore. Just happy to know that what I’m smelling is just the product. :)